Read Part 1 first.
Wednesday. Goodbye to Sweden. Hello to Poland. We got a cab to the Malmo airport and a flight to Gdansk. We had tried to check in online the night before but hadn’t gotten a confirmation. We had to pay an extra $91 to check in at the airport. Oh well, the travails of flying with cheap European airlines. Glenna’s bag was a little overweight, but she took pity on us and didn’t charge. We had roomy seats anyway.
In Gdansk there was no customs or passport control since they are both Schengen countries; we simply walked out. But of course that meant we didn’t get stamps in our passports which we always like to do. We knew it was going to be warmer in Poland, so when we got to our cute room we changed into shorter pants. It felt quite warm even though it was only 78 degrees. Our hotel was on the main drag which, as usual, had its good points and bad points.
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| First view of Dluga, Gdansk |
It was already past 2:00, so we got lunch at a Polish-Lithuanian-Latvian restaurant, again outdoors. This was our introduction to typical Polish food—pretty heavy—potato pancake stuffed with meat and a white sauce containing onion and bacon with coleslaw and stuffed dumplings (pierogis). Both were very tasty.
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First Polish meal--potato pancake
and pierogis
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Inside of the delicious pancake
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We walked the Royal Way pretty much for the rest of the day. The town was 90% destroyed by the Soviets in 1945 (just like Ukraine today) with bombings, shelling in the street, and fires. The town fathers decided to rebuild the important parts of the town just as they had been, and they did a great job. I really liked Gdansk.
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| Gdansk street after Soviet bombings |
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Gdansk after 1945 bombings
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The Royal Way started at the medieval Highland Gate (1574) and proceeded to the Green Gate (1564) where the king stayed when he was in Gdansk.
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| Highland Gate |
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| Close-up of nice Highland Gate wall |
Starting at the Highland Gate, next came the Prison Tower. It was pretty fancy for a prison though it didn’t start out as one. Nearby was the Golden Gate (1612) constructed as a triumphal Roman-style entrance to the city.
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| The Prison |
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Golden Gate on Dluga
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In between was townhouse after townhouse with 6 or 7 floors, many beautifully decorated and in all sorts of colors. I don’t know if many are private anymore; most of them had café tables out front.
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The yellow building was our hotel
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Buildings on Dluga
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| More nice Dluga houses |
In the middle of the Royal Way was the Main Town Hall, begun in 1327 and added to over the years. We went in. The first floor showed the rooms as they were in their heyday with elaborate decoration even on the ceilings and furnishings. The second floor had paintings and the third rooms from typical houses and businesses. Glenna climbed up to the top of the tower (another 4 floors probably) and got some great pictures.
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| Main City Hall tower |
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| Painted ceiling |
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Another nice ceiling
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| Wonderful spiral staircase |
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Amazing ceiling and stove
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| Look at the quote |
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Nice cabinet
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| Sewing shop |
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| Glenna atop Main Town Hall |
Continuing down the Royal Way, Neptune’s Fountain stood in front of Artus Court, the meeting house for the wealthy burghers. Nearby was the most opulent of the houses, the Golden House.
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School children on a field trip
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Neptune's Fountain
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| Golden House |
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| Wonderful decoration on house |
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| Nice mural |
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And at the end, the Green Gate
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We continued past Green Gate to the river Stara Matlawa, crossing the bridge and walking along the path toward the National Maritime Museum with its distinctive crane, thinking that we could cross back over at the next bridge. When we got up there, the bridge seemed to have disappeared. Turns out that it can move 90 degrees to sit in the middle of the river to allow boats to pass. We had to walk back.
We took another route back up toward our hotel so that we could see the Kosciol Mariacki (Church of St Mary). We could figure out most of the place names in Sweden, but Polish is something else. And the pronunciation is difficult. The church is the largest brick-built church in Europe, begun in 1343. The interior was white with very tall windows mostly of clear glass, giving it a very reaching-for-heaven kind of feel. Again there was a huge astronomical clock.
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Tower of Kosciol Mariacki
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Side view of church
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| Soaring nave--I always like the first look |
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| Canopy over pulpit |
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One stained, one not
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Stained glass and screen
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| Astronomical clock |
Near the hotel we got our first ice cream of the trip. We relaxed in the room for awhile and eventually went out for dinner—flounder with sauerkraut and way too many potatoes and pierogi again. Afterward Glenna went off to take more pictures in the changing light while I washed clothes in the sink. The room was incredibly hot even though the dial indicated that the air conditioning was on. We had to open the window. Only 8594 steps
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| Flounder and pierogies |
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We took pictures of one another
mostly at meals
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Thursday. I had a miserable night. Since the windows were open, we could hear the noise from the street way below. The bars didn’t close until 5AM!
The air in Sweden must have been incredibly dry because my lips and throat were always very dry. Even Glenna’s long, thick hair dried immediately. It eased somewhat in Poland. Glenna went out early for more pictures, going pretty far afield.
When she got back we went in search of the tram—back through the Highland Gate. We bought a day ticket on the SKM; later we weren’t sure it was the SKM because the one we took to Gdynia didn’t look the same. We took a chance and didn’t buy another ticket—and didn’t get asked for the ticket on either trip.
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| Glenna walking through the prison yard |
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We saw several interesting strollers
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Our first stop was at the Monument to the Shipyard Workers and behind it the European Solidarity Center—a history and testimony to Solidarnosc, the organization and movement begun in Gdansk and led by Lech Walesa (which we learned is pronounced Va-wensa) which eventually spread across Europe. Of course, everyone who was alive in the 80’s remembers his name if not much about what happened. It was a very moving exhibition. It is interesting to note that World War II and the dissolution of the Soviet empire both began in Gdansk.
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European Solidarity Center near the shipyard
deliberately made to look rusted and old |
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| Monument to the Shipyard Workers |
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English section of the
Memorial to the Shipyard Workers
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On the ground floor was an exhibition in honor of Ukraine; it was clear here and elsewhere that the Poles have no love for the Russians.
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'Solidarity with Ukraine' sign on a building we passed
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| Part of the Ukraine exhibit |
Solidarnosc was the Polish trade union founded in 1980 at the Lenin Shipyard in Gdansk. Trouble began back in the 70’s when the government raised the price of food but kept wages stagnant, causing an underground network of resistance to government crackdowns. In 1980 a female worker was fired 5 months before her retirement for participation in an illegal trade union, enraging the shipyard workers who staged a strike which gave rise to Solidarnosc. Lech Walesa quickly emerged as the leader. The movement went beyond the workers to become a broad anti-Soviet social movement supported by the Catholic Church—even crossing borders into other European countries. The government tried to destroy it for years but in 1989 the government agreed to allow semi-free elections. In December 1990 Walesa was elected president of Poland. In 1983 he had been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
This story was told in detail as we walked through the exhibits—huge blown-up photos of protests, marches, speeches, conferences. There were also videos of speeches with English subtitles. Very stirring.
After lunch we went down to the water, me putting my hand in and Glenna wading for awhile. It was a nice day, and the Poles were taking advantage of it. We were lucky in catching a shuttle tram back to the station (since it was mostly uphill) and didn’t have to wait long for the train back to Gdansk--and the still hot room for awhile.
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This one had 8 floors!
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| Just a nice building we came across |
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| Nice decorated house |
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More modern mural on building
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St Dominic’s Fair, the signature fair for Gdansk, was starting in two days. On one long street we saw stall after stall set up on both sides just waiting for the wares. They obviously are set up by the city or the fair because they were all alike and had electricity. It would have been fun to see, but then we probably would have had a hard time getting a hotel.
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| Note the stalls ready for the fair |
On our way back we had dinner outside again—this time tomato soup and pork with fries and grilled vegetables. Glenna again went off to get more pictures (she hadn’t gotten a sunset yet), and I returned to the room. She gave me a sleep aid that night, and it really helped. 13,093 steps
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| Tomato soup and pork |
Friday. Another day. Another plane ride. I was still sleepy from the pill, so I slept most of the way to Krakow. It was another trip without incident—we were very lucky in this crazy summer of 2022. We found a train to the Glowny (main) station with seven minutes to go. Short ride but then we had trouble initially figuring out the tram system. We went to a station that didn’t have a way for us to transfer to where we needed to go. We eventually gave up and took a taxi to our hotel—once again in the middle of everything we wanted to see. That’s the way to go—even if you sometimes lose sleep!
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| Goulash and potato pancake at the milk bar |
We left immediately for lunch at a milk bar—a Polish thing. They are little cafes where you order from their daily menu, and it comes out in a few minutes because it’s all prepared. Cheap and the food is good. Goulash with three salads and potato and potato pancake with Hunter’s sauce (gravy with veg in it). Also a mixed fruit drink.
Then we were off to sightsee. It was a day mostly of churches. And the Polish churches are beautiful. First was a 1079 Romanesque one, St Andrews, with, strangely, a pretty gaudy 18th century Baroque interior. In retrospect it wasn’t any more over the top than later ones we saw. It’s just that I wasn’t expecting that for Romanesque, probably because my reference was English Romanesque cathedrals which have the wonderful massive round pillars and round arches but not usually gold or much decoration at all. I just needed to reorient to Poland.
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The Romanesque St Andrews
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But Baroque interior
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| Another view of St Andrews |
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| Tower of St Andrews from down the street |
Next was the Church of Sts Peter and Paul from 1596—baroque which you expect to be highly decorated. It has statues of the 12 apostles out front, a nice introduction to the church. I quite liked it.
After was one I hadn’t had on my list, but Glenna did. It was the Franciscan church, pretty ordinary on the outside but breathtakingly beautiful inside. We both listed it as our favorite religious building. Again odd though—who would think that the Franciscans would have anything other than something pretty plain? There was lots of Art Nouveau stained glass but the best was the wall decoration.
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Exterior of Dominican Basilica
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Nave of Dominican Basilica
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| Wonderful carvings in choir |
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Amazing altar
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| Probably St Dominic |
We continued down Ulica Grodzka to Rynek Glowny, the main square. It’s obviously a great gathering place, very large and with interesting buildings on all sides. We first visited the cathedral Bazylika Mariacka (St Mary's Basilica), constructed from the 14th through 16th centuries which has two towers that do not match. Among many works of art it contains, the Gothic altarpiece stands out. It was absolutely beautiful; really it had to rival the Franciscan church (I had a hard time picking which pictures to include here.). I was quite impressed with the Polish churches.
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| Our first view of Rynek Glowny |
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St Mary's Basilica
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| Of course the nave, the first view |
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Highly decorated wall
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Altar screen
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Beautiful ceiling
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Pretty wall behind altar
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Across the square is the Cloth Hall, so named because it was built as a market hall (and rebuilt after a fire). It is still a market. We looked at all the vendors’ wares and got a few small things. Beside the Cloth Hall is the Gothic Town Hall Tower, the only thing left of the 14th century town hall.
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Cloth Hall in Rynek Glowny
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| Town Hall tower |
It was time for our afternoon sit-down, and we did that in the upper floor of the Cloth Hall looking out on the square. We knew that one of the quintessential Polish desserts was apple pie with cream and ice cream, so this was our time to try it. We had it again, but it didn’t hold a candle to this one. It was a bottom crust with several layers of thin apple slices piled on top with very little binder holding it together. The ice cream and cream just added to the deliciousness. We lingered there awhile.
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| Our apple pie with St Mary's in the background |
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| Here we are at the cafe |
As we were walking across the square afterward it was 4:00, and we got to hear the trumpet call coming from the left tower of the cathedral, the Hejnat Tower named for the call. It is left unfinished to honor a medieval trumpeter who was shot while sounding the alarm of an attack on the city. The trumpeter was applauded at the end. As we continued up Ulica Florianska we looked back and could see him taking bows from up in the tower.
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I took this picture as we were walking away
and did indeed see the trumpeter up in that
dark area, but I can't find him in this image. |
We walked up to the Florianska gate, one of the ancient city gates in the town wall. Nearby was the Barbican.
We then headed for the National Museum (MNK). It took awhile to find the right tram to get us there. The museum was a bit of a disappointment for Glenna. It turned out that there are several buildings around the city which are part of the MNK, and this one had only decorative arts and Polish art. I liked what we saw anyway.
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| Ingenious color wheel |
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| Cool sleigh at National Museum |
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| Landscape by W Krzyzanowski |
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Return from a Swim by J Pankieacz
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By this time we were pooped and went back to the hotel to get our room—a very nice one as was the whole place. After a rest we set out to find dinner, exploring first the sunset for which we were too late and then settling on a fairly expensive place. We had trout with potato, strange horseradish and good apple and cranberries as well as meat-filled pierogis. We never did try cheese-filled pierogies because we were about dumpling-ed out.
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| Trout and more pierogies |
Back in the room we spent a LONG time trying to figure out how to get to Auschwitz the next day. We should have done that before. There was a train which left off at the train station, of course, not at the camp. There was also a bus which took a long time. We decided that we needed to go on a minivan tour but had a hard time finding one. We signed up for one with a company, only to get the message that it wasn’t guaranteed because it was too late for them to contact the operator. So it wasn’t exactly a restful night. 14,081 steps
Saturday. We awoke to an email which said that the tour operator had overbooked. I figured our only choice was to ask the hotel clerk for help which he was happy to do. Of course, we paid more than what we had seen online. But, oh well. We were getting to go if not until 11:40.
We decided that we had to take this window of time to do Wawel Hill, the medieval home of the kings and the symbol of Poland’s culture. It was a rather steep climb to the top of the limestone outcrop. We came out on a large open area with the Royal Cathedral on the left and the Royal Palace across the way.
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Wawel Hill and the Royal Palace
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Another view of Wawel which really dominates
that area of the city |
The 14th century church’s exterior was a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic. The interior gave the impression of darkness and was very ornate. Pictures weren’t allowed, but we managed to sneak a few. There were lots of side chapels and no long view because the huge altar was right in the middle which obscured the front.
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| Royal Cathedral from afar |
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Closer view of cathedral
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| Ceiling above the altar |
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| Ornate interior |
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Side view of cathedral taken as we left
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The early 16th century Royal Castle is unprepossessing though large from the outside, but the Italian-inspired interiors were quite wonderful. The three-level castle is built around a central courtyard. Its furnishings include the large stoves in the corners of rooms which I remember from Viennese palaces. The rooms were filled with art and decorative elements. Particularly striking were the ceilings. We toured both the State Rooms and Royal Apartments, the latter far less decorated as is probably the usual since State Rooms are meant to impress a broader public.
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| Courtyard of the Royal Castle |
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| Coffered ceiling and mural on castle wall |
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| Dais and throne |
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A Botticelli
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Another colorful mural
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Nice leaded windows
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Another coffered ceiling
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| Pretty stove in the bedroom |
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| Beautiful cabinet |
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| View of Royal Palace as we were walking down the hill" |
We were somewhat rushed and didn’t have a chance to explore whatever else was in the Wawel environs. We went back down the hill to our hotel to wait for our ride to pick us up. It was a very comfortable Mercedes van which are ubiquitous in Europe. It was a nice ride through the countryside and through small towns. I appreciated our train ride in Sweden and this ride in Poland because it was all of the countryside we got to see.
The rest of the day was educational but of course depressing. We visited both Auschwitz (that’s the German name for it; the Polish name is Oswiecim) and Birkenau, two of the many concentration camps established by the Nazis during World War II. Our guide was very low key, never smiled. It was appropriate for the place, but at the end when she gave an impassioned plea never to forget I wondered if she were Jewish or had relatives who died in the Holocaust.
After passing under the infamous slogan Arbeit Macht Frei (works makes one free), we walked through many of the barracks in Auschwitz which now are really museums, holding lots of images and statistics and artifacts from the time. They started out as military barracks and were converted once the Nazis saw a need for them to hold prisoners—at first for Poles and later for ethnic groups such as Jews and gypsies.
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| Entrance to Auschwitz: 'Arbeit macht frei' |
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| Row of barracks |
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Guard tower
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| Barbed wire fence |
It became particularly an extermination place for Jews.
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| Horrifying numbers |
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| Where Auschwitz prisoners came from |
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Prisoners getting off the train
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Along the way we saw huge piles of shoes, hair (which they used to make other things), glasses, prosthetics, suitcases, mugs, and clothes. We also passed by lots of photographs from the time and a few films.
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Row of mattresses on the floor
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Triple level bunks--better than the floor
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| Photo of executions |
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| The Wall of execution |
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Hanging bar
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Model of the gas chamber
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| Gas chamber room |
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| The ovens |
To add to the misery of what we were seeing, this was the hottest day we experienced (even though not US-hot). My face was just dripping the whole time.
We got back on our minivan and drove the two miles to Birkenau, the camp that was actually built by prisoners when the Nazis needed more room for prisoners. The train would stop at Birkenau, and the prisoners would get out of the cattle cars and line up. An SS official stood at the head of the line, took a look at each person and indicated left or right with his thumb. Women, small children and men who were deemed too old or sick to work went left to the brick barracks; the able-bodied men went to the right to the wooden barracks.
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| On the way to Birkenau |
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Train tracks ending at Birkenau
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Those on the women’s side were given no food or drink. At times they slept on the floor, using their shoes as pillows. Bugs infested the straw, and rats were everywhere. After a few days there were screams and eventually there were none. They lived anywhere from two weeks to two months. The corpses were hauled out and buried.
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| Inside the women's barracks |
One man managed to sneak some photographs and get them out and another wrote the story of what was happening and got it smuggled out to London and the US. But for that the full extent of what was happening might not have been known.
It was horrifying. I really don’t understand how man can do that to man.
When the regime was collapsing, the Nazis tried to destroy evidence of what they had done, so they knocked down the crematoria and burned down the wooden barracks. All that was left were the brick chimneys.
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| Chimneys--all that is left of the men's barracks |
We had to rush through Birkenau because a storm was predicted. As we left the women’s side, it started to rain and then pour. We got soaked even with an umbrella. It took a long time to get back. We stopped because the driver just couldn’t see at times. There was debris all over the roads, including one place where we had to detour because the tree blocked the entire road. We experienced periods of pounding hail; I was up front with the driver, and I could see he was very anxious about damage to his car. It was a really long storm. Back in Krakow, we detoured again because a road near the river was flooded. Streets were several inches deep in water. We finally made it back to the hotel. I felt bad for the driver because he had plans for his Saturday night which didn’t include this.
Next was a bar that sells only one thing—a deliciously wonderful cherry liqueur. When you walk up, you just say what size you want.
Sunday. Our last day so we were up early. It was cooler, thank goodness. We took a tram to the Jewish quarter Kazimierz, first stopping for breakfast in a coffee bar/bookstore for hot chocolate, latte and a wonderful croissant.
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| Breakfast at Cytat Cafe |
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| Wonderful backdrop for breakfast |
After the second market we went to Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery. This one was still in use. Wooden stalls (as in old churches) and nice ceilings. The cemetery was interesting as cemeteries are to me.
Nearby was the French bistro where we had a really good lunch. We had to eat quickly because someone had a reservation at our table in under an hour. We had shrimp salad (with an interesting red sauce) and shrimp pasta and a Kir cider.
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Glenna writing in her journal
while waiting for lunch |
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Another good lunch--shrimp and shrimp
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Mural on our way to the museums
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Because of closing hours we then left the Jewish quarter and went back to the main town to two museums—the Mehoffer House and Pavilion Jozefa Czapskiego. The first had a few stained glass pieces which Glenna wanted to see (since, because of timing, we had missed another museum which focused on stained glass), but I especially liked the house, large with lots of rooms.
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| Glenna on the stairs in Mehoffer House |
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| Mehoffer dining room |
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| I'm always a sucker for flowers |
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| Art Nouveau glass |
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| Lovely wall piece |
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And a lovely lady too
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The second museum had installations of Surrealist art, Pop Art, Cubism and street art. Big names for the Surrealist art but it’s not my favorite.
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| Artist's studio at the Pavilion |
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I did like this piece
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Then we crossed the river (all of this back and forth was on trams) to the Podgorze district to visit the Oskar Schindler Enamel Factory. This is the Schindler of Schindler’s List, and his factory is now a museum telling the story of Polish life before and during the war. The Poles resisted the Nazi occupiers who, increasingly, focused their attentions on the Jews, taking their homes, forcing them to wear Star of David armbands, hurting their businesses and generally separating them from society in part by taking away people’s radios and opinion press and only allowing Nazi propaganda that denigrated the Jews. Eventually most of the Jewish families were forced to leave Krakow; the remaining 15,000 workers with families were removed from their homes and crammed together in one section of the city which was then walled in.
Schindler was a German Nazi who came to Krakow as an intelligence officer and entrepreneur in 1939. Gradually, “after seeing what was going on in Poland and how the occupying forces treated the Jews, he decided to do something about it. With the years we changed in his eyes from cheap workforce to human beings whom he decided to help. Many of us even became friends with him.” (written by Mietek Pemper, from a poster in the museum). He saved many of his employees by saying they were necessary for the war effort when most of the Jews in Kazimierz were being expelled and largely exterminated.
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| Article on Oskar Schindler |
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| Oskar Schindler's Enamel Factory |
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Schindler's employees whom he saved
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The museum was very well done. They used authentic sounds which really set the scene. It was arranged chronologically beginning in 1939. As at Auschwitz there were lots of photographs from the time and some videos. Glenna said the design was very expensive.
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| Roman Polanski writing at age 8 |
On the trip Glenna read Elie Wiesel’s slim volume Night. I took it home with me and read it almost in one sitting. He too was an Auschwitz prisoner. He was with his Dad on the men’s side of Birkenau and survived the war though his father’s will gave out just as they were being liberated. His mother and sister were of course pointed to the women’s side and were never heard from again.
We recrossed the river back to Kazimierz because Glenna wanted to go to a coffee shop in an old synagogue. It was very picturesque, and we were there quite awhile.
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| Tree branches down in Kazimierz |
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| Synagogue converted to fun cafe |
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| Another view of the cafe |
Back in our hotel area, we walked down to the square to see if we could get a sunset picture to no avail. We did a little browsing and then had a lovely dinner—complementary duck pate and toast and dill pickles to start. We hadn’t yet had cheese so we also got an appetizer of fried cheese with bacon and cranberries and horseradish. Nice. Then I had zander (a fish) with grilled veg and lentils and Glenna had potato pancakes with goulash on top. To top it off we had apple pie, ice cream and cream again. They also gave us a complementary plum liqueur. That was a lot of food, but it was so good. And, of course, we wrote down our bests and worsts as we always do on the last dinner. We then had to get back to the room to pack. 14,597 steps
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| Zander and goulash |
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Apple pie and plum liqueur
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Monday. Going home day. Up at 5 AM to get to train station and then to airport. On our way to the gate we stopped in duty free and got a few things—including two bottles each of the wonderful cherry liqueur. We flew back to Stockholm ARN and had time to get some lunch before boarding our Finn Air flight for JFK. The meal on the plane was of course forgettable.
We touched down late because of storms and then sat on the tarmac for a long time—long enough that we missed our connecting flight to Charlotte, partly also because the customs line was long. We stood in a tedious line to get a new flight only to be told that the first flight we could get was 3:00 the next day. The airline put us up at a nearby Crowne Plaza and gave us dinner. One interesting note: we saw available flights on Kayak though we were being told by the desk attendants that there was only the one flight at 3:00. Finally one attendant told me that the online look could include overbooking, but what they are seeing is actual seats. Only 5930 steps.
Tuesday. Our extra day. Of course I was jet lagged and woke up at 3 AM and read for awhile, eventually getting a little more sleep. We decided to Uber to a West Indian place for breakfast—which was more lunch. Pork with roti—good but way too much. Then we Ubered to a café for latte and hot chocolate. We walked back to the hotel to pick up our bags and take the shuttle to JFK.
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| Way too much breakfast |
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Then drinks at a cafe
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Glenna had read about the TWA Hotel; we left early enough to go see it. It was once the TWA terminal (built in 1962), now converted to a hotel but still looking like the terminal. There was also a TWA plane from that era which Glenna went through. We saw a living room from the 60’s and TWA flight attendant uniforms over the years. The whole place was really well done. We had lunch there also—not the greatest.
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| Outside of TWA Hotel |
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| Check-in |
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| Glenna visiting the TWA plane |
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| Plane schedule and 60's cars out front |
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| Gate area |
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Flight attendant uniforms
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Then we took the Sky Train back to the gate area. I was impressed with the Sky Train. It makes an oval run around the terminals. Great signage too.
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| My modest purchases |
I tried to sleep for I knew I had that drive back to Greenville from Charlotte. I hated to say goodbye to Glenna (after leaving family I always have an empty feeling). Because our flight was so late in the day, I missed our community’s annual meeting (I had specifically planned to get home the previous day so that I would make the meeting), but I listened to it via a phone hookup with my brother Rick. 7924 steps
It was another good trip with Glenna, enhanced greatly by all her food finds. What will I do when they come to an end?
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| Here we are, daughter and grateful mom |
P.S. Glory to Ukraine!
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