Wednesday, July 18, 2018

Natural Beauty in the UK - Part 2


Friday was the day to begin the second adventure of my trip—train to Scotland to meet my group on the Road Scholar tour. At Waverley Station in Edinburgh I looked at a street map and decided to walk to our hotel—the Crown Plaza Edinburgh-Royal Terrace. The route I took, recommended by someone who saw me looking at the map, turned out to be very long but avoided a hill.
Looking down the north side of Calton Hill

Up to this point I didn’t know if I had a roommate. I knew only that I had asked for a double room.  I walked in the room and realized that I did indeed have a roommate but she wasn’t there. I read in the lobby awhile and then went back to the room where there she was—Mary Ann Hughes. She gave me a big hug. How’s that for a welcome? 

We got acquainted and then went down for our 5:00 meeting with the rest of the group. We were welcomed by our group leader Dave and our tour director Liz. We went around the circle, introducing ourselves and saying a few sentences about who we were and why we came on the trip. Several were first timers like me, but a few had been on several Road Scholar tours. 

After a pretty good dinner in the hotel, some of us set off with Dave for a walk. To get to town we climbed Calton Hill that I had avoided earlier in the day. Good thing I didn’t try to climb it with bags! The view of Edinburgh from the top was pretty nice, but the hill was incredibly steep which made me worry about the rest of the trip.  It turns out that was by far the worst climb. 


Folk singer at the Royal Oak
Anyway we continued on to town walking along the Royal Mile until we stopped in at the Royal Oak pub where a really good folk singer/guitarist was performing. He sang mostly sad songs of longing and regret—the Jacobite Rebellion and the Aussies in World War I (Waltzin’ Matilda). We sang along with the choruses. Though there are differing interpretations of the lyrics of Loch Lomond which he sang for us, he told us that the low road is the road back to Scotland taken by those who die in battle and the high road is the one taken by those who somehow survive and get back by their wits. The one taking the low road gets back first because on his way to heaven a Scot always passes through Scotland. It was really magical.





18th century townhouse row in Edinburgh New Town
Saturday might have been my least favorite day of the trip though it certainly had high points. After breakfast in the hotel (breakfast and dinner were always in the hotel; lunch was usually on the road) we got on a bus and toured around Edinburgh. If I hadn’t been there a couple of times already, I would have been very disappointed. You just can’t experience a city from a bus! Honestly, it just looked like a big dirty city. Liz told us how beautiful it is—it's her hometown—but it just didn’t appear that way. Most of the buildings are made of soft sandstone which captures all the dirt particles over the years in its crevices. She said when they clean them, they get dirty again faster. We went through the very orderly New Town (built 1760-1830 and apparently the model for US city plans) and less orderly Old Town. We passed by numerous pubs which she said were often named for shady characters. One was Maggie Dickson who was prosecuted for having an out-of-wedlock baby, hanged and put in a coffin which was given to her family. They soon heard noises coming from the coffin. It turned out that she was alive and went on to live a long life and have several more children.

We drove around Salisbury Crag (King Arthur’s Seat), a huge high hill right within the city limits. From the road we got a good view of the Firth of Forth. Firths are narrow inlets of the sea of which Scotland has many.
Looking toward the Firth of Forth from King Arthur's Seat
King Arthur's Seat in Holyrood Park
Thistle in bloom
We continued on to Edinburgh Castle high up on Castle Rock. We first used our whisperers here. These are listening devices that allow us to hear the guide who speaks in a normal voice—great so that you don’t disturb other people but expensive apparently.
Edinburgh Castle
Robert the Bruce at the entrance



















We heard a lot of history of the castle and then set out on our own to explore. Mary Ann and I went in to see Scotland’s crown jewels first—a beautiful crown, sword, necklace and other items used during the coronations of the Stewarts (later spelled Stuart) from Mary, Queen of Scots to Charles II (no pictures, of course). Also there was the infamous Stone of Destiny, also known as the Stone of Scone, used in all coronations of British monarchs, which famously was taken from Scotland, housed in Westminster Abbey (where I saw it once in its place under the seat of the coronation throne), stolen from there one evening, returned to England and eventually given back to Scotland where it rests today with the understanding that it will still be used for coronations. 

We then went through the nicely decorated and colorful state apartments of James VI/I (the Scots always designate him this way—he was the sixth James for Scotland and the first for England when he was asked to take the English throne after Elizabeth died without heirs, thus uniting the countries—though the competitive spirit is alive and well in Scotland!). One tiny room was where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to James.
Note the fleur-de-lis, symbol of the Stuart alliance with France
Fireplace in the State Apartments with the arms of James VI/I
Nice ceiling of one of the State Apartments rooms
The next stop was the Great Hall—I always like these—with its hammer beam ceiling. Another building in the same area of the castle honored the regiments and men who fought and fell in World War I. It was touching after the stirring songs of the night before. 
Great Hall in the castle
Fireplace and armour in the Great Hall
In another part of the castle area was St Margaret’s Chapel. She was an English woman who was a Scottish queen in the 11th century and much beloved for her good works. The chapel was tiny but somehow they manage to fit 50 people inside for weddings.
The ancient and tiny St Margaret's Chapel
The nicely carved chancel arch with chevron motifs
Nearby was Mons Meg, a huge cannon which was the largest one fired in combat in Edinburgh.
The massive Mons Meg
Looking down on Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth from the castle with the monuments atop Calton Hill 
near the center
The castle precinct
Back on the bus we headed for Leith, an area of Edinburgh on the firth.  We were supposed to visit Holyroodhouse but the queen was in residence because the Order of the Thistle ceremony had been held the day before. Mary Ann, Bob and Pat (Mary Ann’s brother-in-law and sister-in-law) happened on it and actually got a glimpse of the queen with her plumed hat. I’ve been to Holyrood so it was okay for me, and actually the substitution was really quite good. We visited the royal yacht Britannia in its berth on the firth since 1997 when it was retired. 

We first had a very good lunch in the tearoom on the yacht and then took our tour—very well done. 
Pat, Mary Ann, Betty and Bob at lunch on Britannia
The royal yacht Britannia
We had audio handsets and went at our own pace. We really got to see virtually every nook and cranny—from the bridge to the engine room. We saw the captain’s, officers’, and mates’ quarters and dining areas as well as the rooms for Elizabeth, Phillip, and other family and the public rooms where they entertained guests and relaxed. We also saw the kitchens, laundry and sick bay. We heard the story that Patton was given a tour and said after seeing the engine room, “Okay, I’ve seen the museum. Now show me the engine room.” But that was it. It was apparently always pristine.

The bridge
Mast of Britannia
Porch where the royal family loved to relax
Photo of George VI and Queen Elizabeth with Elizabeth and Margaret on the yacht
The Queen's bedroom
The very pretty sitting room
The pristine engine room that Patton thought was a museum piece
I loved the shop and got several things. On the way out we looked at the wall panels in the corridors which were very good. Really quite well done. It is Scotland’s #1 tourist attraction. 

Back at the hotel I watched the end of the England-Sweden game which England won. We were, of course, in Scotland, but there was interest in the games there also. Dinner was again quite good—sea bass and crème brulee this time. I was too achy to go out that evening so I watched the Russia-Croatia game. 

Sunday morning we packed up and set off for the Highlands. Our first stop was at the forth bridges—the 19th century railroad bridge, the 20th century road bridge and the 21st century road bridge. Nice contrasts among the three which shows the changing architectural styles.
20th century Forth Bridge and 21st century Queensferry Bridge in the distance
19th century railroad bridge over the firth
Gorgeous foxglove which we saw
everywhere though not this color
The second stop was at Dunkeld which we were told is a big tourist stop though I didn’t quite see why. We walked with our whisperers along the main street to a beautiful garden. We walked on to the church but couldn’t go in because Sunday service was still going on. The grounds there were very pretty also, and it was right on the River Tay. The church itself had lots of scaffolding—the constant hazard of traveling in Europe these days. 

Pretty flowers in the Dunkeld garden
Bob on Dunkeld street
Dunkeld Cathedral--the part not in scaffolding
Pretty cathedral churchyard with RIver Tay in the distance
Window box on the main street
Another view of the River Tay
On the way back we stopped in a craft fair where I got two pairs of earrings made of paper in origami shapes. 

Our next stop was the Highland Folk Museum in Newtonmore in Badenoch and Strathspey—a place like my son-in-law JR’s museum where buildings have been brought from all over the area to illustrate life in the past. We first had a hearty lunch in the conference center.

Then we walked along the path and into houses, a school, the post office, stores, a working croft complete with animals, a shinty pitch and clubhouse (shinty is a hockey-like game with very few rules) and a wonderfully evocative blackhouse (a long house where the animals stayed in the same building as the humans). These buildings were of varous ages up to the 30’s.

Interior of the post office at the Highland Folk Museum
The Blackhouse where the animals lived with the family
Washroom in the schoolhouse
Best was the Township, a recreated collection of houses and barns from the 1700’s. The fifth episode of the first season of Outlanders was filmed here. What luck for the filmmakers that it already existed. It made me want to go back and watch season 1 and then the others that I haven’t seen.
One of the Township dwellings used in Outlander
Interior of one of the Township houses
 Weaver's house
Basket of peat which when burned produces heat
The Highland Hotel in Strathpeffer
While riding along we got a history of Scotland from earliest times to 1703—kings and conflicts with England. One story was pretty sad—King Alexander III who ruled in the 13th century had two sons and one daughter. His second son died followed the next year by his daughter in childbirth followed the next year by his first son. Two years later he died after a fall from his horse on a stormy night. His heir was his unborn child from his second wife, but she miscarried. That left the throne to his seven-year-old granddaughter who died on her way to Scotland, still uncrowned. A period of instability followed—not surprisingly. John Balliol was given the throne by Edward I of England on the condition that he do whatever Edward wanted—thus starting Scotland’s long and often contentious relationship with England.

Highland dancers entertaining at the hotel

The bus took us around Inverness to Strathpeffer to the Highland Hotel, our home for the next five nights. More scaffolding. Oh well. Breakfasts there were good (especially the Scottish muffins and the oatmeal). Dinners seemed less appealing as the days wore on. The vegetables were quite bland and soft and the meat okay though desserts were pretty good. One member of the group said it was because most of the patrons were older English holidayers who preferred their food that way. The entertainment also catered to them. Each night after dinner there was an entertainer who sang familiar tunes—very loudly. The internet only worked in the lobby, so I was fighting to concentrate each night. By the end of our time there, I think it was the consensus that this hotel wasn’t the best fit for a group like ours.

Monday we got our new coach driver, Stevie, whom we all came to enjoy and appreciate. Several times he suggested great additions to our tour. Today we were off to Culloden Battlefield, a bit east and north of Inverness. Okay, here goes some history. I'm condensing all that we heard for this blog. It was integral to our trip, so I hope you'll read it. This 1745 battle is one of the most famous and important battles in Scottish history. The Catholic James VII/II was deposed and exiled in the Glorious Revolution of 1688, and the English invited William of Orange and his Stuart wife Mary (James’ Protestant daughter) to co-rule, later codifying into law that no Catholic could hold the British throne. James VII/II’s son James Francis Edward had been the Prince of Wales and claimed the throne for himself, thus his nickname The Old Pretender. His followers were called Jacobites. He tried several times over the years to regain the throne but never succeeded. 

In 1745 his son Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) decided to try again to regain the throne for his father. He and his troops entered England from France where he and his father had long lived (When Jacobites toasted at dinner, they passed their wine glasses over their finger bowls to signify that they were saluting the king who was over the water.), fighting numerous battles before Culloden. 

On April 16 the exhausted Jacobite troops engaged the well-rested government troops under the command of the Duke of Cumberland, the son of the Hanoverian George II, on Culloden Moor. Liz said that the battlefield was all wrong—much too flat and marshy at the end where the Jacobites were.  The cannons balls of the government troops could easily reach the Jacobites even before the fighting began. Charles Edward Stuart dithered until forced by his generals to engage. The battle was over within an hour with much loss of Jacobite life and little on the other side. Bonnie Prince Charlie saw it as a lost cause and essentially deserted his troops, saying to his troops as he left, “Every man should save himself as best he can.” This battle was the death knell of the Stuart cause and secured the throne for the Hanoverians. 

We walked the whole battlefield where there are many memorials to individuals and clans. Lines of flags represent the lines of the two sides in the battle. The museum was excellent, telling the story of the battle and the times.
Liz educating us (Ben, Florence, Arlene, Connie, Susan, Carol) at Culloden
The very flat Culloden battlefield
The Duke of Cumberland's line
These clan signs were all along the Jacobite line giving the position of each clan for the fighting
Sentiment from a jacobite
Pretty flower on the battlefield
After lunch there we headed for Clava Cairns. A cairn is a mound of rough stones built as a memorial or landmark. These are a prehistoric Bronze Age burial site. There were several circles of stones, two of which had a small opening into the open middle. There were rings of standing stones around them. As is so often the case, two of the mounds line up with the summer and winter solstices. There certainly isn’t any shortage of stones in Scotland for such a memorial. 
Photographer at Clava Cairns
A cairn with the standing stones around it
Our last stop of the day was to Cawdor Castle which was built around 1400 and has since been modernized. The last earl died leaving two sons and a second wife. His will specified that the wife could live there until she died. Imagine that the present earl lives in a cottage (granted that doesn’t mean two rooms) on the estate.  
We got to see formal rooms, bedrooms and kitchens. In one room a tree was growing in the middle, left as a sign of fortune because a donkey with a chest of gold on his back stopped right there. 
Approaching Cawdor Castle
An old boot scraper at the doorway
Beautiful bouquet in a castle room
Pretty castle bedroom
Spiral staircase from the old part of the castle
The tree around which the
castle was built
The kitchens
The gardens were very pretty—very English with all the wildness I love. 


Healthy ferns
Path around the maze
Pretty gardens--and oh so English (as opposed to French)
Oddly-trimmed shrub

On the bus back to Strathpeffer Liz played some very nice Scottish music for us. She had been sick since the beginning of the tour. At our orientation she had a hard time talking and had only gotten worse each day. This day I saw her sitting on a bench with her head down. That evening we found out that she had been taken to hospital and later that she had pneumonia. We had all been concerned about her and were sorry to see her leave the tour. Road Scholar tried very hard to replace her but never did. Dave took over and fulfilled both roles for the rest of the trip. He did an absolute bang-up job.

Tuesday we started with a lecture at the hotel on the Highland Clearances which Dave gave using Liz’s notes. After the Battle of Culloden there was a move to punish the Highlanders who had fought against the government. It was quite cruel, so bad that eventually the Duke of Cumberland was given the nickname Butcher. Ostensibly the clearances were economic. Highlanders, organized in clans, claimed their patches of ground and managed a meager living under the protection of the clan chief. Scottish law didn’t allow for heritable tenancy, making it easy after 1745 for the English to evict them. The powers-that-be decided that they needed to get more value from the land; they wanted to bring in sheep and let them graze on the mountainside (the GDP did triple). Over a period of about 100 years whole clans were forcibly removed from their glens and resettled, initially in the coastal lands where they competed with the local fishermen to make another meager living harvesting kelp and fish. When this didn’t work out, they were shipped to industrial areas of England, Canada, the US, Australia and New Zealand. They were forbidden to carry weapons and could not wear tartans. 


Today there are many more of Scottish heritage living abroad than the only 5 million in Scotland. (England, by comparison, has 53 million.) Eventually there was a backlash and crofting (landholding that was heritable this time) was encouraged again, particularly now since the EU encourages it, but the population never recovered. In fact we seldom saw people or settlements as we drove though we did see ruined croft homes from the time of the clearances.
One of the ruined crofts from the time of the Clearances

The clearances resulted in the destruction of the clan system and of the supportive social structures. Clearly there is bitterness towards the English still, as witness the 2014 referendum where the Scots almost voted to leave the UK and the 2016 Brexit vote to stay in the EU by 68%-32% whereas the move failed in a close vote overall. 

After lunch at the hotel we set off for the Black Isle, a peninsula north of Inverness. On the way out to the end we drove along the Cromarty Firth and on the way back along the Moray and Beauly Firths. As we approached the village of Cromarty at the top of the peninsula, we saw many oil rigs that had been brought back from the North Sea and which were waiting to be dismantled. In the UK section the extraction is no longer economically feasible at the depth these rigs can go; it is estimated that more than half of the reserves are gone.
Riding alongside the Cromarty Firth on the Black Isle on the way to Cromarty 
One of the North Sea rigs waiting for decommissioning

Cromarty was a cute town with pretty red sandstone buildings and healthy-looking gardens. I’m sure their temperature is much better for the plants than the punishing South Carolina sun.


The flowers in this town obviously liked the environment here
Cromarty street with its typical red brick structures
Cool door knocker
Pretty cottage
Seagull on the chimney
Point to point brickwork (pebbles in the masonry) typical of this area
More pretty flowers over the doorway
This poor little seagull chick...
---just couldn't figure out how to get through the fence.
And it was the wrong direction anyway.
Loved this sign!!
Cromarty Firth
Continuing around the peninsula, we stopped at the Groam House Museum, a small Pictish museum in Rosemarkie. The Picts are mysterious early Scottish settlers who eventually died out probably from intermarriage but who left wonderful carvings on stone slabs. We had a good lecture from a gentleman who obviously loved what he was talking about. They have several examples of the Pictish stones in the museum. We also saw a couple more on our travels, including one in our little town of Strathpeffer. The lecturer told us of a brutally murdered man (now called the Rosemarkie man) whose body has recently been recovered from a cave and is being DNA tested. The time is 430 to 630 AD, about right for a Pict. He said he hoped he had some Pictish blood.
Possibly the sides of a stone tomb
Purely decorative Pictish stone
"Man assailed by monstrous animals"
Very close by were the ruins of Fortrose Cathedral. Only the south transept and the chapter house are left. It wasn’t especially impressive as I have seen many ruins.


The ruins of Fortrose through the gateway
South transept, all that is left of the cathedral
Detail of the south transept

On the way back we heard the story of Hector MacDonald also known as Fighting Mac. He was a person of low birth (son of a crofter) but very courageous. He joined the British army and fought bravely in various places (Afghanistan and the Boer War among them), eventually earning the Victoria Cross, the highest award a military man can receive, for gallantry in the face of the enemy. He was given the choice of the award or a commission (highly, highly unusual in the British military system. There is more of a divide between officers and non-officers than in the American system.) He chose the commission. He continued his brave exploits and rose to the unheard rank of Major General. Perhaps because of jealousy, stories were leaked to the papers about homosexual activities. He tried to fight it but eventually committed suicide in a hotel room in Paris. The Scots would have none of it and erected a monument to him which we passed every day on our travels around Strathpeffer.
The top of the Hector MacDonald monument from the road

Wednesday it rained off and on, as it had been doing. We headed south to Aigas Field Centre, a wonderful place. The current owners, the Lister-Kayes, bought the estate in 1976. The house was rundown, almost a ruin, with snow in the Great Hall. With an inheritance from his aunt he started to repair. Most of the house is early Victorian. Earlier parts are post-Jacobean. After Culloden the original house was burned down and all the women killed except one—hello, Duke of Cumberland.
I've always liked these round bales

John Lister-Kaye bought the property because of his interest in nature. Today he is one of Britain’s best known naturalists and conservationists and the author of several books on wildlife and the environment. He was knighted by the queen for his work. Sir John and his wife have seven children; the youngest one Hermione was our tour guide in the house since her parents were away. She will be the caretaker eventually since none of her siblings have an interest in doing so. She comes by her interest naturally. When younger she accompanied her father to Africa for several months on one of his expeditions. It was almost better to have her than one of her parents. She could speak about them and his work in a way that they might not have. The house is full of family portraits, and she told us about some of them.
Aigas' Great Hall
A homey touch--the family's boots
Stuffed bird in the sitting room
Carol, Susan, Robb, Stevie, Carole, Cheryl Patty, and Marland listening to the AIgas guide
Hermione and her dad, Sir John Lister-Kaye, on an expedition
Hermione talking about her home and her ancestors
Whale carcass found in the area
The estate is 500 acres, but only about 250 are available to the family. The rest, by law, is used by crofters who have total say over it. When we arrived, we went on a nature walk up to the loch (named for the one female who survived the Hanoverian assault). The guides are actually trained naturalists, and ours pointed out interesting facts about the flora we saw. We didn’t see any fauna unfortunately. The whole atmosphere is very peaceful. The estate is available for week-long educational tours or just as a place to chill. Visitors eat with the family in the Great Hall.
Schematic of Aigas with the house on the upper right and the loch in the center
Lichen growing on a tree branch
The beautiful Aigas loch
Side pool by loch full of things fascinating to a naturalist
Turn over a rock and find interesting things underneath
Flowers growing out of the spaces between the rocks on the path
Four leaf clovers!
Our lunch was delicious—broccoli and Stilton soup, delicious bread with butter, several quiches and salads and vegetables. It was a lovely morning and early afternoon.

Our next stop was free time in the small town of Beauly. It boasts a ruined priory and some nice shops. Unfortunately we had pretty steady rain.
Beauly Priory ruin
Rain at Beauly Priory



















After dinner at the hotel I went in to watch the England-Croatia game in progress but had to leave after awhile to attend the bagpipe demonstration put on only for us. The bagpiper was a university student who also teaches the skill in a school. In a few days he was taking his students to a big competition in Glasgow. He told us all about the parts of the bagpipe and their purpose as well as his uniform—very interesting. He was young, fresh-faced, earnest and delightful. Also good on the bagpipes, of course. But, boy, are they loud. I guess I had never been that close and in such an enclosed space before.
...showing us the parts of the bagpipe
Bagpiper piping and...


















After his presentation I raced back to the TV room only to see England lose 2-1 in the second overtime. It was interesting to observe the mostly English spectators in the room. They were very critical of bad plays or bad calls and quite vocal. But when England lost it was almost ho-hum, as if they expected it. I think I was more down than they were.

Thursday was a day of riding—and a beautiful one. It was mostly sunny and warm. After breakfast we headed south toward Loch Ness. Along the way we stopped once to listen to a bagpiper along the road, confident that we knew more about this than we had yesterday. He was wearing the Hay tartan (my family’s) though he wasn’t a Hay. Apparently it doesn’t matter. From that vantage point we got a glimpse of our first site—Urquhart Castle, the very romantic and famous ruin along Loch Ness.
Bagpiper on the road to Urquhart
Urquhart Castle in the distance
View of Loch Ness
Urquhart is quite ruined, so it was hard to figure out what the purpose of each area was without the very good signs. We could walk all over which is always fun. We saw a very good, succinct film at the visitors’ centre which explained the history. During the Jacobite period it was held by government forces for two years; when they left in 1692 they blew it up so the Jacobites couldn't use it. That only adds to its allure.
Urquhart from the Visitors' Centre above
Medieval catapult
View of the private chamber--left part of the photo above


















On the coach we heard about the loch which is 23 miles long, 750’ deep (deeper than the North Sea) and located in the Great Glen. St Columba visited the area in 562 and claimed he saw a monster. That began the sightings. And indeed, when you gaze at the water it isn’t hard to imagine that you are seeing monsters in the waves.

Before leaving we had a lunch of our choice in the tearoom and then boarded the bus for Glen Affric, a huge and beautiful glen owned by James Matthews, the laird—the name given to landowners after the decline of the clan era. Matthews is the husband of Pippa Middleton. 

The area was once populated by Caledonian pines. After the clearances and the coming of the sheep, the pines were gone because the sheep ate the saplings. When the sheep left, the pines returned and now their growth is controlled. 

An interesting fact about Scotland is that there is technically no concept of trespassing. All land is essentially public land, theoretically even Balmoral, the Queen’s Scottish estate. I wonder what would happen if you wandered onto it. 

Along the way we stopped to see a pretty bridge and small falls at Invermoriston and later at Dog Falls where we took a walk along the river. By now I was using my hiking poles because my left hip and right knee were really hurting—probably from overdoing it in England.
River Moriston from the bridge
Falls on River Moriston
This dog is definitely part of the family--he has his own chair
Forest of skinny trees
Forest floor full of ferns and other vegetation
Dave explaining the ecology of the area
Slug making his way on the path
River Affric
Dog Falls in Glen Affric

On the way back we stopped to see a memorial to the golden retriever first bred right there on the estate of Lord Tweedmouth. I sent a picture to a friend who breeds them, and she sent back a notice of the 150th anniversary of the breed at the estate the very next week. What a conincidence.
Golden Retriever memorial near Lord Tweedmouth's estate
Lending library on the stone fence
That evening after dinner a few of us walked up to the Strathpeffer field to see the Pictish stone called the Eagle stone because of the carved image on the stone.

Pictish horseshoe on top and eagle on the bottom in Strathpeffer
On Friday we weren’t sorry to leave the Highland Hotel and excited to be on our way to the Isle of Skye. We stopped several times along the way for the awesome views. The mountains were sometimes rocky and other times green. I loved especially the contrast between the green grasses and the still brown heather on the sides of the mountains. A few places we saw heather in bloom, but that was for a few early-blooming varieties.
Forbidding skies as we drove across Scotland
Eagles' nest on the power pole
Loch Garve from the coach
Another shot of Loch Garve
The ever present patch of foxgloves
At our Achnasheen pit stop
Road through the Glen down to Loch Maree
The mountain side that I liked so much with the beautiful green and
the now brown heather
Good view of the almost blooming heather
One of the few pictures of me against the mountain backdrop
One stop was at Victoria Falls where we walked to the top of the falls and saw the fast-flowing stream.


Can't resist a pretty flower picture
View of Loch Maree from Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls

Some heather just starting to bloom

Top of Victoria Falls 
Very shallow river feeding the falls

Susan making friends with a puppy
For lunch we stopped at Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve and ate our picnic lunches prepared by the hotel. (None of these places is pronounced the way you might think—this one is ‘ben egg’.) Here I took a walk along the Pine Cone Trail and part way on the Buzzard Trail--the rest was very much up. The trails were really well marked, and the map was easy to follow and marked to show the difficulty and length of the trails. The visitors’ centre had very good displays. In fact, I was really impressed with the visitors’ centres all over Scotland.
The very good sign for the three walks through the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve
Very soft ground cover through the reserve
Naturalist statues in the reserve
Stone pine cone on the path
Beinn Eighe peak--the whitish look is pebbles created by the receding ice
We continued having spectacular views all afternoon, driving past lochs and through the glens with the mountains on either side. At one point we came across a field where sheep and Highland cattle were munching away. This was our best view of the shaggy, wild-looking cattle.
Probably Loch Clare 
Just mountain and clouds
Homestead in the glen
Torridon peaks
We came across a field of sheep and Highland cattle
Highland cow among the sheep
Munching away
And who are you folks?
Loch Carron
Glimpse of settlement opposite Stromeferry where we were
More foxgloves and Loch Carron
Late in the afternoon we stopped in Plockton, a pretty little town on Loch Carron. There Mary Ann and I stopped for tea and scone but unfortunately no clotted cream, only butter and jelly. We walked around and visited a few shops.
Plockton harbor
Plockton garden




















Victoria and John Brown in the Highlands, a picture at Culloden
Along the way that day we heard about Victoria who visited the area with John Brown. Dave said it’s pretty certain that Victoria actually married him at some point. When he died, she had a monument put up to him at Balmoral; when she died the family quickly and quietly took it down. Dave said she liked him because he talked back to her as no one else did.

We also learned about the geology of Scotland. The Highland rocks are some of the oldest on earth. Scotland was once connected to North America in their position below the equator. They eventually moved northward and separated. Later Scotland bumped into England and they landed where they are now. The various Ice Ages smoothed the lower parts of the mountains and created the valleys. Some places we could see the smoothed layers. 


You can see the striations left when the ice receded
We also learned about tartans. They were not originally for clans but rather for people in a given area according to what dyes were available there (though the colors were much more muted—what good is it if your enemies or your prey can see you?). It was in Victorian times that the whole notion of tartans for particular clams became popular in an attempt to recreate the romance of the times. 

In late afternoon we arrived at Tingle Creek Hotel in Erbusaig on the Lochalsh peninsula. I think it is safe to say that we all loved this place. It is family-run and known for its comfort and gourmet meals. Each night was a treat beautifully presented; for those who couldn't eat some part of it, they gladly provided an alternative.
Our favorite hotel--Tingle Creek Hotel
Our coach in the parking lot with the Inner Sound beyond

Mackerel and bok choy
Cheesecake with strawberry glaze and
physalis (tiny fruit in upper left
which was delicious)




















On Saturday we explored the northern part of the Isle of Skye. It was nasty off and on—wind and rain and not so great for pictures. We drove through both the Red (lower) and Black (taller) Cuillin Mountains—though not tall by US standards. Our first brief stop was in the town of Sligahan where we parked at a nice pub with a good shop.
View of the Red Cuillins
The Black Cuillins
Waterfall in the Black Cuillins
A commuter ferry
Sign in the Sligahan pub
Rain on the coach window
We arrived at Dunvegan Castle, located on a sea loch, in the pouring rain. It kept me from exploring the noted gardens. The castle has been home to the MacLeods for 750 years; of course it has undergone Victorian renovations. It was impressive and contained many relics, some quite important. Their most treasured artifact is the Fairy flag, an almost completely threadbare flag said to protect the family from harm.
First view of Dunvegan Castle
Mary Ann in her recognizable jacket ahead of me
heading for the entrance

Library of the castle
The game room

The clan chief is a woman!
The Fairy flag, their prize possession
The bell board used by the domestic workers
On our ride we heard more about Bonnie Prince Charlie and his escape. After the Battle of Culloden he fled west and was aided in his escape by 24-year old Flora MacDonald who later in life lived at Dunvegan. The story is that she disguised him as her Irish maid. He eventually made his way to France and then Rome, and she may have helped him to get him out of the country so that he wouldn’t pose a danger to her family. Some say that the Jacobite general may have let him get away since they knew he had no future. In any case, I didn’t come away with a good impression of Bonnie Prince Charlie despite the romanticism surrounding him.

Alexander McQueen in the same cemetery
Farther north near the top of the isle we stopped at Kilmuir cemetery where Flora MacDonald’s grave is. It so happens that the designer Alexander McQueen’s grave is there also.
Flora McDonald's grave monument



















On the east side of the isle we stopped at Kilt Rock, so called because of its vertical striations.

I just liked the look of the beach here
Kilt Rock with its vertical striations
Some of the heather was blooming here too
We got a pretty rainbow on the way back down the island
Our last stop was at the town of Portree for some free time and shopping. I got some ice cream and bought a few things. But I saved room for the next wonderful meal.

Cured herring appetizer
Smoked chicken with vegetabes


Awesome dessert--traditional cranachan
Sunday was the southern part of the Isle of Skye and rain once again. 

The Skye Bridge connecting the mainland to the isle
The sea loch near Armadale
We stopped first at Armitage Castle, home of the MacDonalds. The castle is a total ruin, so the clan chief (whose title is Lord of the Isles) lives in a nice home we saw along the way with his wife who is a well-known chef. The visitors’ centre at the castle told the history of highlanders, the incursion of the Vikings and the clearances and then focused on the MacDonalds. There were plenty of artifacts but perhaps too many wall panels here. By this time we had gotten such a lot of Scottish history from Liz and Dave that a lot of this was a repeat.
Viking ship in the museum made by children
Mary Ann and Pat on the treed path



















We walked in the rain to the castle ruins—second day in a row where we essentially missed the beautiful gardens. Here we couldn’t go inside the ruins, just look from a distance, even though there is a substantial amount left.


Armadale Castle
I just thought the white stuff on this
tree was interesting



















In the coach we heard more about the MacDonalds. In the 4th century the Gaels came to the Scottish land mass and in the 8th-9th centuries it was the Norse. In 973 Kenneth was the first to call himself King of the Scots (the western part of modern-day Scotland and the Isles). In 1156 Somerled founded the dynasty which became the MacDonalds. Today Prince Charles is Lord of the Isles. 

Our afternoon visit was to Eileen Donan (‘a-lun doo-nan’), situated even more gorgeously than Urquhart Castle. The name is that of an Irish saint of the 6th-7th centuries. The castle is surrounded on three sides by water. Founded in the 13th century by the MacKenzies, it was lost because of their Jacobean connections and taken over by the MacRaes. Many movies have been filmed there which is not hard to imagine. 

One fact we learned there was that the narrow spiral staircases in castles were made for right handers so that their sword hand would not be against the wall when marauders were coming up.
It was an interesting interior but we couldn't take pictures--again. The Great Hall and kitchens (recreated with foods and people in all their activity) were especially nice. Once again there was a good shop.
Eileen Donan Castle from across Loch Long
Closer view of the castle
Model of a later Vikiing ship of the kind that came to this area
Inside the castle grounds
Looking up
After another delicious dinner at the hotel, we had a wrap-up session with Dave who had to leave early the next evening to get to his daughter’s college graduation in Nottingham. We also took some group pictures.
Salmon and crayfish salad
Monday was the day to make our way back down to Edinburgh. It was another spectacular day for scenery, even better than the day we crossed the Highlands for me. 

We drove by Eileen Donan again for another view and then on south. 


Pretty houses near Eileen Donan

Last view of Eileen Donan
Along the way we heard about modern Scotland. Electric power generation began around the time of World II. At that time one percent of the homes in the rural areas had electricity. The first hydroelectric power plant was built in 1959-64. Today 12% of the electricity comes from hydroelectric. The second large industry in Scotland is the production of whisky which is made from barley; we saw a barley field at Culloden. The Scottish life span is shorter than that of the English largely because of their poorer diet. 


The field adjoining Culloden Battlefield was planted with barley 
used in making Scottish whisky

We stopped at the Commando Memorial near Lochaber; it is dedicated to the original British Commando Forces raised during World War II. Nearby was Ben Nevis, Scotland’s highest mountain (4413 feet), but we could barely see it because of the heavy mist and cloud cover.

Loch Duich 
In the area of Beinn Fhada
In the area of Loch Cluanie--beautiful greens
The only windmill farm we saw
Loch Lochy
Ben Nevis is back there somewhere
Commando Memorial
As we drove along we heard about the Glencoe massacre, another seminal event in Scottish history. To tame the clans William III required an oath of loyalty of the clan chiefs by Dec 28, 1692. The MacDonalds of Glen Coe were a rough bunch and frequently sparred with the Campbells. Clan chief MacDonald dithered about signing but at the last minute made his way to Ft William to sign where he was told that he could not sign there but had to go to the sheriff of Inverara who turned out to be gone for the holidays. He signed but he signed late. John Dalrymple on behalf of the crown didn’t accept his oath and ordered a group of Campbells to kill the MacDonalds of Glen Coe. The party were welcomed warmly by the MacDonalds and then killed them in their sleep. Some escaped but spent a hard winter in the mountains. To this day there is a pub in Glen Coe with a sign on the door which says “No Campbells.”

The visitors’s centre here was also terrific, telling the story of the MacDonalds and the massacre. Another big focus was mountain climbing because there is a lot of it in the Glen Coe area. Dave pointed out a few that he had climbed. Now and again he told us about himself, and there was plenty to tell. Raised on a farm, he sheared sheep, baled hay, and split wood among other things. Always into sports and martial arts, he now hikes, bikes (next is a 1000-mile trip in South America), sails, and mountain climbs. He’s actually had time to work in his life also—both teaching history and geography and working in the travel business.
Mountain climbers' sentiments with which I am sure Dave identifies
Then we drove through the beautiful Glen Coe, a long narrow glen with high mountains on either side. My first drive through Glen Coe was back in April of 1995. Nothing was in bloom, so it was totally brown. It was absolutely eerie. Glenna was asleep beside me, so she has yet to see this spectacular place which on this day was a beautiful green.


Glen Coe peak
More Glen Coe peaks
Crevice among the peaks
And another Glen Coe peak


Area near Glencoe Mountain Resort
The Bridge of Orchy, part of a network of roads built to carry
government troops during the time of the Jacobite uprising
We drove on past Rannoch Moor, very primitive looking, and through the Trossachs of Rob Roy fame to Stirling Castle, the home of the Scottish kings for a long time. We had audio guides which gave us a good commentary on the history of the castle and kings. 
Stirling Castle on its hill
Kids having fun in the Queen Ann Garden 
Pat and Mary Ann listening to the commentary with the Inner Castle
entrance in the background
Great Hall restored to its original appearance
Another hammer beam ceiling in a Great Hall
Exterior of the Chapel Royal
Interior of the chapel--plain but appealing
Palace exterior
Gudeman of Ballengeich at Palace corner
Palace ceiling restored to the look of the James VI/I era
Another Royal Apartments ceiling I liked
Another ceiling--I guess I just like ceilings
One of the 16th century carved wood medallions
William Wallace at Stirling

View of Stirling from the Castle
Queensferry Bridge from our hotel
Reflecting on the trip, my biggest impression is of all the history we learned. A lot of it had been fuzzy before, but now I feel as if I have a pretty good handle on it. What a great way to learn!
On the road for the last stretch we were soon back to Queensferry where we got another good look at the three bridges. Our last very nice modern hotel was right by the newest bridge. We said goodbye to Dave and Stevie and were turned over to another group leader Fiona for our departures in the morning.








Our route through Scotland--Edinburgh lower right point, north on the right side with
Strathpeffer in the middle of the four branches (our day trips), then west across
the country withTingle Creek in the middle of the two loops of the Isle of
Skye and then on down to Stirling and back to Queensferry near Edinburgh

The last day, Tuesday, as always, is just getting home. I flew back to Heathrow, then to Newark and then Greenville--18 1/2 hours--arriving home at midnight. I think the meal on the long flight was probably the worst I have ever had on an airline. But I watched Goodbye Christopher Robin which was lovely. At home I did some unpacking and then was up for my volunteer job the next day.
The rest of my purchases--some for me and some for gifts. Part of the fun of a trip is shopping!
Would I take another Road Scholar tour? Yes, I think I would. I enjoyed the company of my fellow travelers very much. The logistics and the learning were both handled really well. For some, the history may have been a bit too much, but I ate it up (taking notes, as you surely can tell). There was a little too much down time, but that may be because I chose a level 2 tour (not too much walking and, I guess, not too much changing of hotels which I don't really mind). It was fine, as it turned out, to have all the meals and hotels and entrances taken care of even if we have no say in the matter. And it will keep me traveling which is what I want to do for as long as I can. 
My traveling companions--from left: Stevie, Betty, Marland, Patty, Mary Ann, Connie, Pat, Susan, Robb, Gayle,
Cheryl, Ben, Bob, Florence, our leader Dave, Arlene, Warren, and Carol. Missing: Carole who unfortunately
missed many of the activities due to illness and our tour director Liz who had to leave


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